Monterey, Dali & Big Sur

On Sunday, we set off from our safe-haven for the last 4 days to once again face driving the RV and this time having to navigate the 6 lane motorways. What fun THAT was! Wind picked up at about 2am so we had to contend with that in addition to everything else. Suffice to say, there was much swearing and confusion – mum concentrating on staying between the two lines whilst I read the myriad road rules (mum can’t take her eyes off the road) – including “speed monitored by aircraft” (WTF??? HOW??) and kept shouting “you’re over the line!”, “you’re over the line!” at her.

Made a stop in a seaside town called Monterey to see the Old Fisherman’s Wharf (similar to San Fran but quieter, less busy, and less stink-of-seal-y) as well as the Salvador Dali Exhibit nearby. On the way, I was DELIGHTED to spot some adorable little sea otters – they were far away, but I was happy just to get a glimpse, seeing as they are essentially the teddy bears of the ocean. Additionally, we decided we had to try the local specialty, clam chowder (which, if you don’t know, is a creamy seafood dish containing a variety of vegetables and herbs), as practically every single shop along the wharf was selling it. Our verdict: we liked it! So if you ever find yourself in the area, I’d recommend you try it.

Was surprised to find that Salvador Dali spent some time in Monterey Peninsula after he and his wife fled Europe just before Pearl Harbour and the USA’s entry into World War II.

“I don’t do drugs. I am drugs.”

Salvador Dali

“There is only one difference between a madman and me. The madman thinks he is sane. I know I am mad.”

Salvador Dali

Following this pitstop, it was time for us to commence our treacherous trip down the equal-parts stunning and terrifying Highway 1 that would lead us to our second location (and safe haven) – the Fernwood Resort in Big Sur. How best to describe Highway 1? From Mum’s point of view, it was probably just like any other road, as any time she averted her eyes, the car swayed dangerously close to the sheer cliff face which often had NO barriers to save us from certain death, leading her to promptly continue to stare straight ahead for hours at a time. For me, it was a sweaty-palmed marvel of beautiful coastlines, crystal blue water, intriguing rock faces, and an assortment of bridges that were too narrow and too high up for our liking. We learnt the hard way that most times when you ever so kindly pull over onto the shoulder of the road to let a stream of traffic pass, you rarely (never) get any show of gratitude. It was so bad, in fact, that after Mum firmly declared for the 26th time that she would NOT move over for such ungrateful people, she actually kept her word and refused to move.

Finally, and with much relief, we arrived at the campsite, and were instantly treated to a steep, one way road that led down to the river where we would be staying. After setting up, the next item on our priority list was to connect to the WiFi back at the restaurant/front office at the top of the hill, as well as to find a way to view the Oscars, which I have been desperate to watch this year. I’m happy to say we achieved both of these things, and in the process, met a few new people; after Parasite won Best Picture, an American girl whom I’d briefly spoken to came and excitedly hi-fived me, as we were both overjoyed and surprised at the result. Following this, she pulled up a chair, and we discussed the ceremony, before she and her friend recommended a few places to visit further down the coast in and around San Luis Obispo. On our second night, Mum was thrilled to build and successfully start our first campfire, where we toasted marshmallows, whilst frantically scrambling to collect more kindling before the fire went out prematurely.